The day began with a trip to the US embassy gym. Unlike the US embassies in Japan or China, there isn't a central compound in Hanoi just yet. Four buildings 20 minutes out from central Hanoi house a staff of 300 or more (and growing). It's funny to be visiting a country where our first ambassador started in 1995. It all feels like a work in progress.
Quiet day. Had a bit of brunch and then took a walk south of Hoan Kiem lake. This area is less frenetic than the old quarter north of the lake, and is filled with upscale restaurants and boutiques. I had been thinking that it was Sunday, and we hadn't seen much evidence of churches when we turned a corner and happened upon St. Joseph's Catholic Church.
We stopped at MoCa cafe for a snack and emerged to find evening mass in progress.The service spilled out of the doorways and into the square, and a huge video screen had been erected on the front of the building to broadcast the service. Choral music wafted through the air as cyclos slowly drifted among the rushing motorcycles.
I should mention that one of our food quests in Hanoi is to find the perfect nam ren (spring rolls). So far, La Place and Hanoi Garden vie for first place. Extremely thin rice paper wrapper, fried crispy,with tasty pork and veggies filling (varies with restaurant), with a dipping sauce of vinegar and sweet chili. Excellent accompaniment to cold beer.
Bit of rain today, so we may visit museums. The museum of ethnology is reputed to have great exhibits on the Vietnamese minority populations. From what I understand, while many similar museums in other countries recount historical accounts of minority cultures, this is more of a window into the present situation. More on that later.
