Friday, January 25, 2008

Foreigner Bars

A brief digression on foreigner bars. Before spending time in China in the mid-1990s, I couldn't have explained the phenomenon, but here in Hanoi, sitting in a bar like Le Pub ("Every Day is a Happy Day") after a second day's unsuccessful trip to the women's tailor for an Ao Dai ("Mrs. XX is out at an appointment -- can you try again tomorrow?"), all the memories come back. Of course, the beer helps.



It is all about the jarring change of context that is visiting/living in the Far East as a westerner. Personal space, gaining/losing face, bargaining, propriety, business practices, friendship -- all concepts are just a bit different over here (read any travel guide for eastern country of interest). Sometimes you need a break.



A good foreigner bar is just that kind of place. It may be run by expats (usually) or locals, but the basic elements are the same. A quiet place where folks leave you alone unless you are looking for a beer (foreign or domestic), a burger, or conversation. Le Pub had the right vibe. We were there for an hour or so, and saw Americans, Germans, Australians, and French, and some Vietnamese as well. Locals (often with better than average language skills) who want to make contacts with foreigners in a relaxed setting (NOT selling fruit, lighters, books, CDs or DVDs, tours, personal services, etc.) are welcome as anyone else would be around the counter at a good pub.

This particular spot had a good selection of beers: Tiger on draft, Hanoi, Halida, Guinness, Newcastle, John Smith's, Strongbow, Chimay red, Leffe Blonde and Brun, Kwak, Duvel, Anchor, Heineken, Hoegaarden, Beamish among others (hey, I brew beer, so I notice beer), loads of cocktails as well as plenty of good looking food, fresh juices (marvelous thing in Hanoi), and desserts.

The main thing is the relaxing atmosphere though. The rest is window dressing.