In the preceding posts and pictures I tried to capture the feeling of Hanoi from our perspective. The overall effect is somewhat incomplete without the smells and and the feeling of the air, though. One of the things we noticed immediately, coming back to Asia, both in Hong Kong and Hanoi was the smell of coal in the air. It is the smell I associate with China, when I lived in Harbin and Beijing 12 years ago. Smells like winter.
I mentioned earlier (I think) the difference in personal space one notices as a westerner in Asia. It's funny, in the Hanoi guide it said not to be surprised if the Vietnamese were to ask personal questions or make remarks that would be considered rude in US culture. Examples they gave were something like, "You're really very fat," and "Isn't your husband ugly?" Fortunately I didn't experience the latter, but I did see a real-life example of the former. A European backpacker was stopped by an older Vietnamese man at Hoan Kiem. I couldn't hear the conversation, but it ended with the older man poking at the westerner's stomach and laughing.
A couple more amusing experiences come to mind. At Gammebeer, as we were in conversation, Lissa got a funny expression on her face and her father began laughing. I looked up and saw that the waitress had noticed Lissa's colored hair braids, and like a cat, was playing with them contentedly.
Previously, at the Temple of Literature, I had been pre-occupied taking photos, and hadn't noticed a young Vietnamese woman (I think a student) approach me. When I stopped taking pictures, she looked me in the eye and said clearly, "You can kiss me." I politely declined.
(I am fairly certain that she was actually trying to convey another meaning, but this makes a better story.)
Oranges everywhere -- must be Tet!
One last image, back in Hong Kong on the way home, I was pleased to see the iconic Star Ferry still shuttling passengers back and forth to Kowloon. I think it closed for a time, but if so, someone bought it and kept the same ships and low fare service (HK$2.2). No trip to Hong
Kong is complete without a trip on that ferry.